Lars and Shelley shows how you can pursue your dreams on the road as Middle Age Travelers. In this episode, the couple from LifeJourney4Two shares how they just came to the decision to go for that nomadic travel lifestyle one afternoon. 9 months later, they sold all their stuff and went on the adventure of a lifetime. Having been traveling through Europe on a Motor Van, and exploring Africa on a Camper Van, Lars and Shelley explains the differences between the two types of vehicles, along with incredible travel stories. Get insightful tips about starting and living the van life, as well as taking a positive mindset towards life.
- 03:38: Preparing for the big trip
- 07:16: Savings, spendings and house sitting
- 15:19: Why choose travel by van life?
- 19:23: Is van life good for lowering travel cost?
- 19:00: Travel style and budget
- 12:21: Challenges of Van Life
- 32:37: Traveling with motorhome in Europe
- 43:14: Renting vs Buying your motorhome
- 45:30: Wild camping in countries
- 47:10: Planning where to go next?
- 50:54: Finding out what features are important for you
- 54:05: Camper Van vs Class B Motor Home
- 55:54: Handling work and wifi on the road
- 58:44: Dealing with seasons and weather
- 1:00:55: Traveling as middle age travelers
- 1:09:13: Tips when starting van life
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The following is an extremely summarized version extracted from the transcript of the full conversation. I strongly recommend listening to the podcast for all the valuable insights. You will also hear more detailed and contextualized stories from the guest(s), as well as pointers from me in a two-way conversation.
Let’s start with an introduction! Tell us about you and your background story.
Shelly – I’m Shelly, and this is Lars; and we decided to start our travels in 2017. So we sat down one afternoon and thought about our hopes and dreams for the future. We started writing things down. We realized that everything on our bucket list was related to travel. So we thought, why wait? Let’s just do it. We saved like crazy for about nine months. We both gave up our jobs. I was a teacher, and Lars was a health and safety manager. And that’s where it started. We only thought we’d go for about a year because we thought funds would run out. But once we were about six, seven months into the trip, we realized the funds were going a lot further than we expected because we’re pretty frugal. We were in a motorhome, so we cooked all our food and didn’t pay for accommodation. Then we found something called Trusted House Sitters, where you can stay in people’s houses for free and look after their pets. They’re all over the world. So we could stretch it out a lot longer. Then we started the travel blog because we couldn’t find things that we wanted to know while traveling, especially as older, mature travelers. So here we are, four years on and no end in sight. Lars is working at the minute with his old company, which is perfect because of COVID. We were in Africa when we went into lockdown.
What preparations did you make in the 6 to 9 months before you started traveling?
Lars – We had to knuckle down and do some savings. So we decided not to burden yourselves with things and sold everything. We minimized what we had and got it down to two check-in bags and two hand-carry bags. So for the last four years, that’s how we’ve been traveling.
Shelly – The hardest part of the process was deciding what to get rid of.
Lars – I’m pretty attached to my chainsaw, which I couldn’t let go of, but it’s back in Australia. It’s more along the lines of the photography equipment and electronic media that we need when on the road to keep up with communications and capture and store photos; that is our precious stuff. We bought a four-wheel drive in Africa that is still out there at the moment. So after I finished work here in Norway, we will return to Africa and continue our travels.
Did you have a target amount to save before you set off on the trip?
Shelly – No, it was to save as much as we could. We don’t spend much anyway, so we cut down and sold everything. One of the hardest things was deciding what to do with jewelry I had inherited from my Mom and Nana. They held memories, but they were too small for me to wear. They were sitting in a box. So I sold them to remember them as they contributed to our trip, except for one ring that I kept.
Do you think the new generation is switching from materialistic possessions to creating memories?
Shelly – There’s not been one day where we doubted what we’ve done. People thought we were crazy at the time, and some people still do, or they think we are lucky, but there’s no luck involved. I think a lot of travel is a choice.
Lars – We’ve often said to people you don’t have to commit to a year-long journey; you can just bite off a little bit, see if it’s for you. You don’t know till you try; for us, it’s worked out great. We come to Norway every year, I do some contract work, and then we go back to whichever part of the world we’re traveling through at that time. It’s great. But you need a break from traveling; you do get travel weary. We do anyway, just being on the move all the time. You need to stay in a place and have a base for a while.
Tell us some of your house sitting experiences in France and South Africa.
Shelly – It was when we started to work on the travel blog. It had always been on my bucket list was to live in France and speak French, so that’s what we did. We lived in a beautiful Carriage House beside the Chateau. We had three beautiful cats, seven sheep, and eight chickens, which kept us busy. It was just beautiful, walking in the countryside and immersing ourselves in the small village. We got a feel of what it was like to live in France, and we got to know the different kinds of people there. It was still traveling but at a much slower pace.
Lars – We come to Norway for many months of the year, and house sitting has provided great opportunities. We spent seven months in South Africa; our home was near a desert for five months during the lockdown. The other two months were Kruger National Park.
Shelly – I think we were supposed to do six weeks in a house, then South Africa went into a massive lockdown. The people we were sitting for couldn’t get back, so we ended up staying in their house for five months. They had been in their holiday home, which is in a bush camp beside Kruger. We were able to apply for something from the police to change residents. So we swapped and went to the bush camp, which was the most extraordinary experience.
Lars – There were two of us in the camp with no one for miles, so that couldn’t have been a better situation for us.
Shelly – There were no fences, apart from elephant fences. We had hyenas coming through and came face to face with a leopard, which was pretty scary. There was a couple of rhinos wandering by; it was incredible. We realized we’re not city people. We were definitely out in the bush and nature people, and we love to photograph where we live. It makes me happy, which is the whole point.
Why did you choose a camper van lifestyle instead of another form of travel?
Lars – When we first left Australia, our first year of travel was in a motorhome/camper van. We decided to give us the flexibility to go where we wanted and when we wanted and be more careful with our money. We had the initial outlay for the cost of hiring the camper; then, we could manage all our expenses. It worked out great for us. We can stay longer in countries when we want; we have total control over what we do. It’s complete freedom. It was the first step into longer-term travel. Motorhomes are all kitted out, they’ve got showers, cooking facilities, and it’s a small home on wheels. We’ve got a taste traveling around doing our own thing.
Shelly – But Africa is different; you must stick to all the main roads in a motorhome. We knew that we wanted to go off on the tracks that aren’t so well-traveled, which is why we bought the four-wheel drive with the tent on top. You can get different types; some you have to climb outside to get into the tent on top, whereas you can get in from inside in ours. As you climb in the back, it lifts, and that makes it a little bit nicer.
How much did it cost you per day to travel in a motorhome?
Shelly – I can’t remember, I’ve broken it down, but I can’t remember off the top of my head.
Lars – We couldn’t buy, for the price you pay for a 20-year-old vehicle, we decided it wasn’t worth the money because then you have to sell it afterward. Plus, a 20-year-old vehicle has potential problems. So we rented, it was fast, free and enjoyable travel for the first year.
Shelly – I’ve previously been on a trip and bought a motor home. And it needed a new engine; it ended up costing a lot of money. We didn’t want that stress. We wanted to have a new model, which would have been expensive to buy. That’s why we decided to go that route. Halfway through, we looked at buying one when we thought we would be traveling for a lot longer, but it just was too difficult. So we bought a car and road tripped in France for 18 months as our motorhome fell through. We slept in the car. It was our motor home for a while.
Lars – In 2018, we road-tripped from Southern Norway to the fjords on the West Coast and up to the Lofoten. We spent a few weeks doing that in the great weather.
Shelly – Norway is not as expensive as everyone says. Japan is more costly, and Switzerland was outrageous. I think the accommodation here in Norway is expensive, but the food isn’t too pricey.
Lars – We have to be careful what we buy. As a traveler, you check the price out on everything and think, do we need it? In any country, you gauge the cost of things and decide if you want to buy them.
Shelly – When we were in Iceland, the food was incredibly expensive. That’s why we hired a car, and we stayed in b&bs where we always had breakfast. We’d get our breakfast and then make cheese and ham sandwiches; we ate during the day.
What are some of the challenges that you faced during your motorhome travels?
Lars – Coming from Australia, we drove a car on the left-hand side of the road. When we started traveling in Europe, we had to get used to driving on the right-hand side and in an eight-meter long camper. We had a two-hour handover from the Depo, where we picked up the motorhome, and they very quickly ran through everything. We were so used to driving on the left-hand side; we had to reboot the habits we had learned many years ago. It was a bit hectic for the first week, but it got a lot better after that.
Shelly – I thought one of the challenges would be us together in such a small space 24/7, but it wasn’t at all.
Lars – I guess because we’re out all the time unless we are writing. We don’t lounge around in the camper van or our Bush camper. We’re out doing things, and I think that’s the difference. When we come back, there are always things to do and prepare for the next day.
Shelly – I think one of the worst things is rain. I hate it when it’s raining. When we have the motorhome, it is OK because you snuggle up and have everything we need. But, with the bush camper when it’s rainy, it’s not much fun. You are outside most of the time. So we have got an awning that we put around, but still, I don’t like it when it’s raining.
Lars – One of the other challenges in Europe was every country has a different language. We tried to learn a few words, the courtesies; it always goes a long way, and we got pretty sharp with our sign language. Filling up gas bottles was difficult because each country has a different adapter to fill the portable gas bottles that you need for cooking. So that was a bit of a learning curve for us as well. In Australia, everything is standardized. In Europe, they seem to have a common standard but with their own minor individual type. So understanding all of the rules and regulations, but we didn’t find any negative rules during our travels.
Shelly – I love the van life, that freedom of being out there and part of everything. The little van we’ve got now is luxury because we don’t have the ladder on the outside, and the tent pops up. We always look at the good side of what we’ve got.
Did you find it challenging when traveling through Eastern Europe?
Shelly – I remember wild camping, possibly in Serbia. Someone in a car pulled up at about one o’clock in the morning and kept the engine running. We’re in the middle of nowhere. I did worry then, but nothing happened; they just drove away. But we found these countries the most friendly of all Europe. The people there were nice it wasn’t scary at all.
Lars – I think we go on a gut feeling when we travel. If it doesn’t feel good, we just keep moving on. It’s not as polished as some Western European countries; it doesn’t have the necessary infrastructure. But I think a lot of Eastern European countries are pretty safe to travel to these days. I don’t think there are too many issues.
Shelly – I still got a lot to write about there. But as you know, when you’re blogging, you need to SEO and how many people are likely to want to read it. People want to read about France, Portugal, and Spain, rather than Albania or Serbia, but they’re on my list. I’ve just done a schedule of which posts to write each week, and they’re still on my schedule. We had a particularly moving experience in Serbia, where we had heard about this tiny little chapel that had bones in it. We didn’t know much about it, and it looked like it was all closed up. We were just about to walk away, and I tried the handle. Then somebody opened it from the inside.
Lars – It was this Captain, well, people in military uniforms surrounded by skulls. They were having a closed ceremony, and they broke into song.
Shelly – They invited us to come in.
Lars – We thought we were intruding and should back away. But they said to come in, and then they broke into song.
Shelly – It’s a tiny place, and it echoed. Everyone was around the skulls in the middle. It was incredible to write about the many things that happened.
Lars – I don’t think you get the same populace you do in Western Europe. That, for us, is refreshing. It’s a bit more random and a bit wilder, and that’s what we like.
Shelly – We did a free walking tour in Sarajevo. The guy who did it told us all the stories about how they taught in the basement of their apartments. One of the people who lived in the apartments was a teacher, so she would take them all down and then how they’d run to get the water. I think all three of those countries had stories; they all told about the oppression they’ve been under and things they’ve learned under the communist system. It was so interesting to hear their stories.
Lars – I think it just makes you stop, listen, and absorb because it’s first-hand information.
Shelly – It’s hard to believe that kind of thing was happening in their lifetime. It’s still so fresh in so many of their memories.
Did your motorhomes ever break down?
Lars – No, nothing really serious of that nature with the van. The rental had full breakdown service, but we did not have any dramas at all. We didn’t need to put the car or van in for service or anything like that. So not many stories to tell on that front. A couple of times, we hit the crash barriers and had some panel damage.
Shelly – Luckily we had travel insurance, and our insurance company paid the excess both times.
Would you recommend people who are starting to rent a van and get proper coverage?
Lars – Definitely try a short-term trip; maybe try it for a weekend to see if it’s for you or not. Some people find they don’t like to drive around and live in that confined space. For others, it’s lovely, so have a taste of it first. Then go from there before you commit to a long trip where you find that this was not a good decision.
Shelly – We met loads of people who had these fancy motorhomes but never used their toilet. We find it interesting that people travel for months and never use their toilets and not for number two’s.
Lars – It’s not difficult to clean, you just open the lid up, pour it out, and put the lid back on. That’s the whole idea of having a motor home, to be mobile and off the grid. But many people stay in a camping site with all the facilities to choose not to have to empty it and use the onsite toilets.
Are there places whereby it’s illegal to wild camp?
Shelly – It depends; country by country is different. I think more countries are saying that wild camping is not legal. In most of Europe, we were able to wild camp. We wild camped a lot in Greece, around the Peloponnese, on beaches and the beach, and that was fantastic.
Lars – We also used an app called Camper Contact that gives information on paid campsites and places where you can wild camp, and people can provide feedback on this app. So that was a beneficial resource for us to plan where we would stay the next night. Sometimes we needed a site with power to use the facilities. But a lot of the time, we chose to go to these wild and free camping places.
Shelly – In South Africa, you’re not allowed to wild camp, but many campsites are pretty basic anyway. We have our bucket and a little stool now, rather than a toilet.
What factors do you consider when you’re determining where to go next?
Lars – It’s a quick, where do you want to go next? For example, after we finish Africa in a few years, I think we want to head to the US and Canada because there’s some incredible scenery. So we have a general view, and once we get closer, we start the planning. More time goes into the planning for us than the actual trip itself. But some people might choose to do it differently. But for me, you have to plan for everything and what might happen. That ensures you’re going to have the best time you can and without mishaps. Also, if you’re spending your money wherever you go, you want to know that you’re spending it on the right stuff. So planning is super important.
Shelly – I think in Africa, the practicalities, rather than what do we want to see? We look at what we want to see and the scenery, but we ask the locals what we should see when we get there. So a lot of the beforehand planning is talking about the practicalities. Do we need extra insurance when we get into that country? What do we need to get into that country? What will we do if we break down in that country? Because we’re not in a group of people traveling, it’s just the two of us.
Lars – So when something happens, what do we do? We ask ourselves that question all the time. So there is a lot of thinking in the background. But once we’re there, we’re there; we enjoy it. We go with our gut feeling, and if it doesn’t feel right, we’ll just keep moving. Don’t ignore your gut feeling.
I assume there’s no timeline to this?
Shelly – We didn’t want to be on a timeframe. We wanted to stop and go and not think we need to do this or that. We wanted to know that we could keep going as long or as short as we wanted to.
Lars – That’s why we talked about years because we’re going to need that amount of time not to rush it and enjoy the experience. It takes the time it takes once you own a vehicle. That’s the significant outlay financially, and then it’s just a matter of just enjoying it.
Were you able to adjust the motorhome rental as your trip progressed?
Lars – We took it initially for five months, but that was because we’re from Australia; I worked out how many kilometers we were to drive. I messed it up because I thought we’d zip around Europe in three to four months. We had no chance; what we thought was five months, we needed to double that at least.
Shelly – We also realized there were different designs of motorhomes, and we preferred a different design. We were able to swap to varying models during our trips by renting from other companies.
What are the differences between the different models?
Shelly –There were a couple of things. One, the first bed we had to climb up onto wasn’t comfy.
Lars – The first motorhome was a baseline version, and so after a while, you can work out what works for you and what doesn’t work for you. We had that vehicle for five months. The second one we took from a different provider, we had for seven months. They upgraded it for us as well, so we had a bit of luxury. I didn’t notice too much at all. Somethings you like, somethings you don’t like, and you only know that once you experience it for some time, then you know what to look for in the next camper van. You can be specific about what you want. So take the camper van for a weekend or a week to get a baseline of what will work.
What are some other things that you might find a hassle traveling in a motorhome?
Lars – It’s a different setup.
Shelly – When you’re outside under the canopy because you can’t relax in the evening, so sit inside. But you can’t do that because there’s nowhere to put your cup of tea or anything. So when you’re inside, you’re inside.
Lars – You do have the option to sit outside, but it’s just as comfortable to sit inside. But if you want to lounge around, you have to go out, put out your chairs, and it’s outside living. So, it’s not a challenge, but it’s just different. So, I guess it depends where you’d like to draw the line for your comfort. For us, it’s great fun. The big thing is we’re amongst the animals; you can’t hear the noises and sounds from inside the vehicle. You need to see, hear, smell; it all stimulates the senses.
How did you manage WiFi for work?
Shelly – WiFi was difficult in South Africa.
Lars – We had a real issue getting a SIM card; they don’t have them in Europe. When we arrived, we had no communications. We had to rely on free WiFi in cafes for the first month, Then later on in Belgium, you just show your driver’s license and passport, and we got two SIM cards in the Orange network. That was great all over Europe, but it was a real hassle for us for many months. In most countries, through Europe, they just said no, if you don’t have residency, and that was it. When traveling, you cannot be disconnected. You may need to receive security updates or quickly check something when you’re traveling, so it’s necessary. I think you’ll find most travelers will have the same story. You don’t want to spend hours uploading your photos. You just have to be careful in how you use your gigabytes.
How do you cope with seasonal weather changes?
Lars – We don’t mind. We go with the flow. We don’t drive for better weather. It’s what’s happening in that season. For example, it could be wildflowers over here; it could be a migration there. That defines how we pick where we’re going. If it’s lovely weather, it helps too, but it’s secondary. When it’s cold, we have sleeping bags and extra blankets. We are willing to make sacrifices for the experiences we’re having, and for us, it’s a small sacrifice.
Is there anything you find different as mature travelers?
Lars – We find that people seem to have more time to talk with us and vice versa. We’re not in a hurry. We find people our age, maybe a little bit older as well, tend to take the time to talk a bit more.
Shelly – The good thing is we are still pretty fit. When we traveled Europe, many of the motorhome crowd were older than us; we felt young. I think it’s great that we’re doing it now and we haven’t waited. A lot of people wait until they’ve retired and they haven’t got the energy or fitness of health to be doing what we’re doing.
Lars – When we had our campaign in Europe, we had a couple of bikes with us. We had a bike rack on the back of the camper. Instead of driving through towns or cities, we’d take our bikes. Then we didn’t have to contend with traffic and parking, and we got the fitness benefit. It gave us more options.
When you decided to make the trip, were you in a retirement mentality?
Lars – The idea was we allocated X amount of dollars for the initial travel, and we said at the end of that, we will just stop traveling, go back and do some more work. As it turned out, I work for my old company; we travel, then I fly to Norway, we have a break from the travel, build up our travel funds, and then we continue what we’re doing. So we’ve changed the initial plan, whereas we thought we would wait until our money ran out to perpetually topping up through the year. That’s enough to keep us going. So do we have an end date or year in sight? No, it’s more what do we want to see next and when do we want to see it? I’ll tell you what, traveling is a lot more fun than working.
Shelly – We weren’t thinking of retiring or thinking we would be working till 65 or 70. So we didn’t talk about it. My boys would be doing their things, and now with technology, I don’t miss them because we’ve got FaceTime, and we message on messenger. I can see all three of them at the same time. I get more out of them than I ever have done at home. I get a lot more information from them. They’re proud of what we’re doing as well. It’s role modeling what they can do at any time. Occasionally, you want to be able to hug one if they are upset; that’s the only thing I’ve missed. It’s so different nowadays.
What are some of the tips that you would give for someone looking to do van life?
Shelly – I think the main thing is to have that positive and don’t think about it too much. Just decide and go through it. I mean, what can go wrong? The worst-case scenario is you end up going home.
Lars – I think if you’re going to start it, follow some of the well-trodden roads, keep things easy. Then once you build up your confidence a bit, go down the less-traveled roads. I think you’ve got to be a bit streetwise and comfortable with what you’re doing and have a bit of confidence in yourself and what’s around you. Then, do your thing, whatever that might be.
Shelly – Life will be shit sometimes, but you get through, and you build resilience. That’s where you learn, and the same with travel, any travel. It’s never going to be roses all the time; you’re going to learn that. You’re going to learn more about yourself. You’ll learn more about what you like. For example, I’m 54 now; when we started traveling, I was 49-50, and I never realized how much I loved nature and wildlife. When you immerse yourself and you go out there, life catches you up. Follow whatever you want to do, whether it’s travel, paint, or whatever, just do it. Think about it, go out and experience lots of different things. There are never any wrong choices. There is always the potential to change.
Lars – Make a decision and do it. Then if it doesn’t work, you’ve learned that it’s not your path; choose another one. There’s a lot of planning behind the scenes; it’s not just stepping out one blindly. Make a choice. Stick with it. If it doesn’t work, close the door, then the next one opens. So opportunity after opportunity awaits.